Grilled Branzino with Rosemary Vinaigrette

Please welcome Hank Shaw as he takes us through the steps of grilling a whole fish, using sustainably farmed branzino. ~Elise

Branzino. Sounds kinda like a the name of a 1940s prizefighter, doesn’t it? If it’s ringing a bell, that’s because this fish is popping up in American supermarkets. Also known as European seabass, the fish—now farmed throughout the Mediterranean—has been a prized item on European menus since the days of ancient Rome.

The farmed variety began appearing on American restaurant menus a little less than a decade ago, when the European farming operations ramped up production.

Branzino, which is the fish’s name in Northern Italy, generally run about 1 pound each and are almost always sold whole and gutted. This is a good thing, as it is far easier to discern whether a fish is fresh when it still has its eyes and gills: You’re looking for bright, healthy eyes and bright red gills. Sunken, red eyes and brownish gills means the fish has gone off.

We found ours at Whole Foods quite by accident—I saw the whole fish in the case and was immediately seduced by the sight of a whole fish, with gleaming clear eyes. I had to have it.

When I asked the price, I was even happier. It was only $9.99 a pound, which is pretty cheap for Whole Foods. The relatively low price is because the fish is farmed. Should you ever see a wild branzino on sale in the United States, it’ll set you back at least $30 a pound—and I’ve only seen one in a market once, and that was at the Fulton Fish Market in New York City.

Don’t have access to branzino? No problem. Midwesterners actually have the perfect alternative in the walleye. The flavor, texture and bone structure are nearly identical. Other great alternatives would be Pacific rock cod, Atlantic black seabass, a large croaker or a small red drum or striped bass. Basically you want a whole fish (scaled and gutted, of course) that is just about the size of a platter.

Purists eat their branzino solely with salt and lemon. We’ve created a rosemary vinaigrette that goes great with the fish. Simply drizzle it over right when you serve.

Grilled Branzino with Rosemary Vinaigrette Recipe

If branzino is not available, try this with walleye, Pacific rock cod, or a large Atlantic black seabass.

Ingredients

• 2 Tbsp minced onion
• 1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
• 1 teaspoon salt
• 3 Tbsp white wine vinegar
• 1 large garlic clove, chopped
• 1 heaping tablespoon of minced fresh rosemary
• 1/2 cup olive oil
• 1 whole branzino
• Olive oil
• Salt, preferably sea salt

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